2020 marks two decades since Jean-Claude Mas began his journey to build what has become one of the most well-respected groups of wine estates in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of Southern France. But this year they have a second major accomplishment to celebrate: being awarded European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast.

Wine Enthusiast, one of the top-three US wine and spirits publications, officially announced the award on November 11th. Each year, Wine Enthusiast honors the individuals and companies making outstanding contributions to the wine and beverage world through their Annual Wine Star Awards. The Wine Enthusiast Media team submits nominees for 15 different categories and the nominees are voted on and ultimately culled down to finalists based on factors like “impact on consumers and trade in the wine, spirits, or beer space, commercial successes, company/brand vision, and trendsetting.” 

About Domaines Paul Mas

The 15 estates of Domaines Paul Mas have been major players in reinvigorating the prestige of the Languedoc’s ancient winemaking history. Over the past two decades, they have grown from a small family plot near Pézenas to encompass 850 hectares of vineyards across the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. Their wines range from everyday-drinkers to prestigious estate bottlings but all maintain a certain approachability, embodied by their motto “Le Luxe Rural” (Rural Luxury).

The indisputable powerhouse behind this project is Jean-Claude Mas. Returning to the Languedoc in the late 90s after stints in finance, advertising, and even motorcycle racing, Jean-Claude founded Domaines Paul Mas with 35 hectares of land inherited from his father (who was himself a third-generation winemaker). He started the project of becoming a bonafide winemaker with a deep loyalty to the region where he was raised, first participated in “les vendanges” (grape harvest), and gained an appreciation for the warm, joyful culture of wine. 

The wines of Domaines Paul Mas were first brought to the US in 2005 and the American palate immediately took to the style of winemaking described by Jean-Claude as “old world wines with a new world attitude.” Over the last 15 years their US presence has grown to over 1 million bottles imported annually*. Much of their outstanding lineup is represented by Volio Imports and distributed across the US, including Arrogant Frog, Paul Mas Réserve, Château Paul Mas, Château des Crès Ricards, and La Forge Estate.

Jean-Claude is the head winemaker for all of his lines, which requires incredible discernment and direction across such a diverse set of properties. He achieves this feat through a laser-focused commitment to this philosophy in every winemaking choice. ⁠⁠

A main pillar of this philosophy is sustainability, which is woven into every vineyard and winery at Domaines Paul Mas. As they celebrate 20 years of innovation in the Languedoc, it is also worth celebrating the measures they have taken to ensure that the land they care for will be healthy and bountiful for the next 20 (and long beyond).

100% of their vines are certified to the highest level of HVE (“Haute Valeur Environnementale” or “High Environmental Value,” in English) and 80% are farmed organically. Fundamentally, Jean-Claude is dedicated to integrating sustainability into each phase of winemaking–water is strictly conserved and recycled in the wineries, all production waste is composted or recycled, and he has even started to experiment with growing lesser-known, heartier varietals that would be more naturally disease and pest resistant.

Jean-Claude uses the phrase “old world wines with a new world attitude” to describe his stylistic approach to winemaking. For Jean-Claude, it’s all in the balance of things. This includes his winemaking–of course–but also the culture he promotes around his wines. Bottles from Domaines Paul Mas are meant to speak to their place of origin and hold up as pure expressions of their varietals without being pretentious or exclusive.

The most important through-line in all of Jean-Claude’s work though is the concept of “Le Luxe Rural,” or “Rural Luxury.” He sums up the concept like this: “With the greatest respect for our rural roots, we aim for perfection. Our wines are the result of our mission to inspire real emotions.” Wonderful wine should accompany wonderful memories. ⁠

It speaks to the intimate connection between wine and life, food, celebration, and community. As he puts it, his top priority is always quality–and quality is always luxurious. The pleasure of good wine should be an experience sought daily, not something reserved for a special occasion. Life’s simple luxuries deserve a consistent place at our tables.

Jean-Claude makes wines that do exactly this: enhance and delight.

 

Volio is so proud to work with the Domaines Paul Mas team and to join them in celebrating this remarkable accomplishment.

Volio has partnered with Carbonfund.org to analyze and 100% offset our company’s carbon emissions from 2019 onward. Going carbon neutral is a key part of our larger effort to increase environmental sustainability at each stage of our operations.

Volio’s mission has always been to bring the vineyard experience closer to the consumer experience, which requires, in part, shipping wine from Italy, France, and Spain to the US. This trans-Atlantic journey generates a lot of waste in the form of harmful carbon dioxide. And while we believe in what we do, the carbon footprint of the wine industry cannot be ignored. This means it is our responsibility to address. Our decision to partner with Carbonfund.org was driven by the desire to establish business practices that will allow our industry as a whole to thrive for many vintages to come.

Volio’s founder, Charles Lazzara, explains our motivation:

“The wine industry is so deeply rooted in the environment that we feel it is our obligation to engage thoughtfully and impactfully in sustainability. As a wine importer, a lot of Volio’s business involves shipping large quantities of heavy wine across the world, which produces a significant volume of CO2. Partnering with Carbonfund.org will allow us to be carbon neutral as a business and to offset every bottle of wine that we bring across the Atlantic.”

Carbonfund.org provides organizations the opportunity to “Reduce what you can, Offset what you can’t™.” Carbonfund.org states:

“We encourage everyone to continually strive to reduce their carbon footprint through sensible energy reductions combined with cost-effective carbon offsets to eliminate their overall carbon footprint. Carbonfund.org supports third-party validated and verified renewable energy, energy efficiency, and reforestation projects globally that reduce carbon dioxide emissions and the threat of climate change.”

“Since founding Volio, I have been focused on representing multi-generation, family-owned estates who display tremendous respect for the land they farm to produce wine,” says Lazzara. “And, with the majority of our suppliers practicing sustainable, organic, and biodynamic farming in addition to employing renewable energy sources like solar to power their wineries, it was only logical that Volio align its business operations to offset carbon, our greatest impact as a business on the environment.”

Volio Imports is committed to helping preserve the environment for future generations–not only for us, but also for our supplier, distributor, retail, restaurant, and consumer partners. By offsetting all of our carbon emissions from 2019 onward, we hope to inspire others in the wine industry to do the same.

We are energized to continue prioritizing environmental sustainability in everything we do.

Stay tuned for more initiatives on the horizon!

First, let’s answer the question: what and where are we talking about when we say the “new world” and the “old world?”

Generally, the list of countries considered part of the old world are: Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, and Germany. And the list of countries considered part of the new world are: USA, Canada, Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand.

Here’s a helpful map from Wine Folly:

Side note: You’ll also see the area noted as “Ancient World.” This area, in and around the Caucasus Mountains, is where the oldest evidence of winemaking has been found. The history of wine goes back a loooong time! However, the most frequently discussed distinction is between old and new world wine.

Old World vs. New World

Most basically, winemakers of the old world laid the foundation for present-day winemaking by defining the “classic” flavor profiles and techniques. The new world then interpreted those traditions for new soils, climates, and technologies. Also, keep in mind that many of the regions of the “new” world have been producing wine since approximately 1500 CE. Vine growing and winemaking generally arrived in places outside of Europe through European colonization and the subsequent importing of their beloved vines and wines.

And while there are no hard and fast rules for what an old world or new world wine must taste like, we’ve narrowed it down to three things you can normally expect to find in a wine of each category…

Three common attributes of old world wine:

1. 1. Fresher + higher acidity 
   2. Produced in cooler climates
   3. Lower alcohol

Fresher + higher acidity 

Let’s first talk about “freshness” in wine. Think of a cucumber; cucumbers are fresh. They provide a little “pop” to the palate with that crunchy, watery zip. No sugar needed. In wine we call that “zip” or “nerve” or “energy” acidity. Classic, old world wine styles need acidity to balance even the richest reds. Additionally, as opposed to crunchy grape skins in your wine glass (which would be nasty but I’m sure has been thought of), old world wines strive to achieve balanced tannins and minerality as a compliment to acidity. These elements produce the satisfying freshness associated with popular old world red wines made from grapes like Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir.

Produced in cooler climates

Much of this freshness is possible because the grapes are grown in a cooler climate than most new world regions. While there are definitely warmer climates within wine-producing regions of the old world (think of Puglia, Italy), compared to the heat of Chile, Argentina, and parts of California, the old world starts looking pretty mild.  

Lower alcohol

A cooler climate means that the grapes won’t naturally develop high sugar levels. And because alcohol levels in a finished wine are directly related to the amount of sugar present in the grapes when they are picked (less sugar means less fuel for the yeast to turn into alcohol), this results in lower ABV wines in the old world. 

Here’s another helpful map from Wine Folly that maps cool vs. warm regions:

 

Three common attributes of new world wine:

1. 1. Produced in warmer climates
   2. Higher alcohol
   3. Pronounced fruit and rich oak flavors + big bodied

Produced in warmer climates

US wine production is predominantly in warm climates like California’s Central Coast or Walla Walla in Washington State where international varietals like Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot enjoy long, hot growing seasons. Other new world countries like Chile, Argentina, and Australia have similar climates that also yield success with these varietals. 

Higher Alcohol

Remember how hotter climates will create more sugar in the grapes? These higher levels of sugar convert to alcohol during fermentation and create more robust alcohol levels in wine.  While, in general, wines from warmer climates typically have higher alcohol levels it is also possible to restrain sugar levels through intense canopy management (how many leaves you leave on the vine to block sun), or, less commonly, picking the grapes at desired sugar levels in order to have lower alcohol wines.

Pronounced fruit and rich oak flavors + big bodied

The wines produced in these places are much “bigger,” hitting higher alcohol levels naturally, and containing more intense primary fruit flavors and rich oak notes. On average, these bigger styles also have a dose of either natural (residual) sugar or added sugar, which producers mask through modern winemaking techniques. This sweetness contributes to the feeling of “weight” in these wines.

It is also worth noting that big, fruit and oak driven wines are commercially successful in the United States so it’s hard to dial back any of that intensity if you’re looking to make wines for immediate retail success. Most Americans drink wines from America. This isn’t a symbol of ardent patriotism, it’s simply because US wines are readily available, are delicious, and hit all the price points consumers look for. 

To be clear, most of the “classic” producers that put Napa on the map in the early days made wines that reflected European taste profiles. The “Napa sprawl” still seen at historic sites like Heitz Cellar reflect the history of the valley. A wild, seemingly unmanaged canopy of leaves shields bunches from extreme heat while allowing farmers to focus on vine health and realize a little stronger yield to attain elegant, old-school Napa flavors. 

Volio’s take on this (and what we love about old world wines)

Discovering old world wines after mostly drinking wines from the New World can feel like pouring in the foundation of a home after the house has been built. It can be difficult for wine drinkers to find pleasure in European wines if one compares the more lifted flavor profile of many old world wines to the deeper, heavier profiles of warmer-climate Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, or Malbec.   

The trifecta of soft grape tannins, a little minerality, and the present acidity in the mouth, are critical to a balanced red wine. From there, it is all about appreciating the wine for what it is, and developing a sense of what wines you find enjoyable. At the end of a night with friends, judge the best wines by the empty bottles on the table. Typically, even new-world-loving crowds will crush bottles of fresh, old world whites and reds while the “heavier” wines from California remain half full.  

There are beautiful wines produced in every grape-growing region of the world so it would be unfair to argue a hierarchy between the “old” and “new” world. That said, the standards of quality that most people develop are reflective of classic winemaking styles, which were born in the old world (think of wines from Bordeaux, Chianti Classico, Barolo, Champagne, etc.). As younger wine regions develop their signature styles and a new generation of winemakers interpret the classics, we see exciting, creative wineries popping up all over the world. 

But regardless of “new” or “old,” the most fascinating thing about wine is discovering how the unique soil and climate and history of each vine-growing region combines to express itself in the finished wine. This is what we mean when we talk about “terroir.”

So go buy a Chardonnay from Burgundy, France and drink it next to a Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast, California. Or try a Pinot Noir from the Languedoc next to one from Oregon or New Zealand. In addition to this being a very fun way to learn geography, it illustrates how the origin of a wine directly affects its flavor profile, even when comparing wines made with the same varietal. 

At the end of the day, the most important thing is to figure out what is good to you. The most rewarding approach is to appreciate each bottle for what it is…not what it isn’t.

 

By: Charles Lazzara

 

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This Wednesday, April 22^nd will mark the 50^th Anniversary of the first official Earth Day, in 1970. Credited with launching the modern environmental movement, Earth Day is a celebration of everything we should be doing year-round to protect our planet. In the wine industry, discussions of Earth and environmental concerns usually lead quickly to the topic of Natural Wine.

So, what is Natural Wine? Unfortunately, there is not one definition of Natural Wine and lots of different opinions on what the term constitutes. According to the latest edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine, “Natural Wine” possesses the following characteristics: “Grapes are typically grown by small-scale, independent producers. Grapes are hand-picked from sustainable, organic, or biodynamic vineyards. Wine is fermented with no added yeast (i.e. native yeasts), no additives are included in fermentation, and little or no sulfites are added.” Although a solid basic definition, there is no regulated set of truths that dictate whether a wine counts as “Natural” or not. This makes the movement all the more difficult to decipher.

Though we can use the three categories of Sustainable Farming, Organic Farming, and Biodynamics as reference points for our understanding. When we talk about the differences between these movements, it is best to look at the founding principles of each.

Sustainable Farming

The most “bare bones” approach to natural winemaking is “Sustainable Farming,” which focuses on mitigating and reducing the wastefulness often associated with farming and winemaking processes.

Organic Farming

The basic tenet behind Organic Farming is achieving purity of product through the use of non-synthesized ingredients.

Biodynamics

For Biodynamics, it is all about holistic agricultural health. Biodynamics goes one step further than Organics by asserting that all living things are interrelated systems: animals, plants, and the solar system. You create healthier plants and heal the earth by replenishing the soil. Dr. Rudolf Steiner, a philosopher and scientist, is credited as the founder of Biodynamics. His 1924 lectures to farmers offered a new way to integrate scientific understanding with a recognition of “spirit” in nature. You can find more information on the philosophy and methodology of this sometimes-mysterious farming approach at the Biodynamic Association’s website. They also have a great list of book recommendations, if you’re craving a deeper dive into the subject.

As you may have experienced, “Natural Wine” has become a buzz-phrase in recent years, following on other similarly-trendy, sustainability-focused movements like “Farm to Table.” And, despite their legitimacy and good intentions, these overused phrases have become passé and their nuance flattened. Specifically, I find that many Natural Wine discussions inevitably lead to a debate about sulfites. In an article titled “The Truth About Sulfites in Wine & the Myths of Red Wine Headaches,” author Mary Gorman-McAdams discusses the inconsistent information circulated around the elusive chemical. “The term ‘sulfites’ is an inclusive term for sulfur dioxide (SO2), a preservative that’s widely used in winemaking (and most food industries) for its antioxidant and antibacterial properties. SO2 plays an important role in preventing oxidization and maintaining a wine’s freshness.” Additionally, “wine contains about ten times less sulfites than most dried fruits, which can have levels up to 1000 ppm,” (as compared to a maximum of approximately 200 ppm in red or white wine). And the majority of honest winemakers keep sulfite levels well below the maximum permitted limits. Bottom line, it’s unlikely that sulfites are to blame for your wine headaches.

          Compost at Rivetto – biodynamic and organic winery

Certifications Yay or Nah?

Since the 2012 vintage, the European Union has implemented definingregulations for organic wine: the EU organic certification. Ecocert (currentlynot allowed on bottles in the US per the FDA) regulates farming practices, including banning GMOs and limiting sulfur additions. There are also several organic, biodynamic, and sustainable certifications a winery can include on their label, though not all are equal and not every winery can afford them. Many winemakers operate as de facto organic or biodynamic without displaying a certification on their labels. It is also important to remember that not all certifications regulate the holistic process from vineyards to bottle, leaving room for wineries to unnaturally manipulate their wines at specific points in the process without being required to disclose it.

Setting aside certifications, I think we should get back to Honest Wine: wine made with the least amount of intervention from grape to glass, with grapes grown in the vineyard with Sustainable/Organic/Biodynamic/Polyculture farming practices, and that speaks of its terroir and origin. As a consumer, ask yourself, who do you trust to give you the most complete information on the wine you drink? What do you prioritize when selecting a wine?

My advice is to shop local and develop a relationship with your local bottle shop wine professional or the sommelier at your favorite restaurant. They will enthusiastically guide you! And don’t forget to check the back label of each new bottle. Learning to trust the integrity of a specific importer’s portfolio will lead you on fascinating and delicious wine journeys.

    —–

 

Written by Sarah Shomaker, April 21, 2020

Sarah Shomaker is a founding member and the current president of Colorado Natural Wine Week Consortium—established in 2014. Her family (husband) farms 14-acres organically between two historic farm properties in Brighton and Arvada, CO and an acre at Chatfield Botanic Gardens, where he studies heirloom wheat varietals. 

 

 

 

 

As some of you may know, it has long been a dream for Charles to own a vineyard. And, after much searching and consideration, we are thrilled to announce that this dream will soon be realized.

In light of the changing climate and a forward-thinking opportunity that we could not say no to, Volio has decided to purchase 7.308 hectares of land in the Faroe Islands, off the coast of Norway, to be planted with vines over the coming year. The vineyard site is immaculately situated in the middle of a south-facing slope with a superb aspect ratio to the sun, ensuring perfect ripening conditions. Close proximity to the ocean and a hanging lake will bring gentle breezes to clear away settling frost and caress the vines, adding a lovely, subtle saline note to the finished wines. These combined lake and ocean influences create a unique microclimate rarely seen in vine growing areas in the world.

The fascinating volcanic soils are made up of three distinct basalt layers. With an average age of 56 million years, this rough, rocky soil will add intriguing nuance to the wine, reminiscent of the other great volcanic terroirs around the world.

More information will follow regarding the chosen varietals and their proportions. We are in the midst of meticulous agriculture research to determine which clones will be best suited for the site but the list will undoubtedly include full and semi-aromatic white varietals, as well as one or two early-ripening and thin-skinned red varietals. Our in-house vineyard consultant duo, Lorenzo and Tomasso, are currently conducting a 17-point analysis of the site to be sure of our planting decisions. Stay tuned for more information coming soon and for the highly-anticipated first vintage, releasing on February 29, 2023!

Above: Our current winery and tasting room.

Below: A prospective future vineyard site.

Note: This endeavor might not reach its full potential in our lifetime but we view it as an investment for the next generation. In the future, the land will be split equally among all current Volio employees’ children (current and future).

 

 

…April Fools!! But you never know, maybe one day…

With the March Madness “Sweet Sixteen” and “Elite Eight” originally scheduled for the end of March, we all would have been experiencing serious basketball fever by this weekend (highly contagious but much better than COVID-19). For many, this would include excitedly watching as each new game result either confirmed or ruined their meticulously filled out tournament bracket. We’re sure many of you were certain that “this was going to be your year,” if only you could have had the chance to compete with your bracket alongside the NCAA teams! Sadly, you will never know if your expert predictions would have been leading the pack by now or completely busted. But in the absence of “the real deal” this spring, Volio has come up with an alternative way to embrace the spirit and excitement of March Madness…with wine! Read below for how to create a wine-focused tournament bracket that you can use to play along and compete with friends and family, from the comfort of your kitchen table.

Instructions:

1. Pick a theme for the tournament: New World vs. Old world, four regions to represent the four quadrants, random assignment, etc. See below for an example.
2. Choose different grape varieties to represent the teams in each “game.”
3. Purchase a bottle of wine for each team. We suggest calling ahead to your local bottle shop to explain what you’re planning and get their suggestions on good choices for each varietal. 
4. Once the tournament has been set, the games can begin. Each participant should fill out a bracket predicting which wine or varietal they think will win over the tastes of every player during the tournament. For example, you might predict that the Barbera and the Pinot Noir will meet in the semi-final.
5. Then, as a group, work through each round (Elite Eight, Final Four, Championship) by holding a blind tasting to represent each game. See below for blind tasting tips!
6. The winner of each game, determined by a majority vote from all players, moves on to the next round. For example, Nebbiolo won the Piedmont division against Barbera (majority preference from all players) and Gamay won the Burgundy division. Therefore, Nebbiolo will face off against Gamay in the Final Four. 

Recommendations:

• Group the wines into their respective match-ups on the table before hiding their identity. Ex: Nebbiolo and Barbera wines set side-by-side in the top left corner of the table.
• Then, cover the labels and bottles to prevent you from seeing which wine is which. Use paper bags, tin foil, socks, etc. Then have a different player who didn’t see the original positions of the wines swap their places a few times so everyone involved is completely blind. 
• Keep all wines masked/blind until the very end then reveal all the wines at the same time to determine the final champion and count how many correct picks each person got.
• The player with the most correct picks wins Wine Madness 2020! In case of a tie, flip a cork.
• Raise the stakes by giving a prize for the winning bracket. Our suggestion is a gift card to a local restaurant or bar, which the winner can redeem once we’re all out of this quarantine.
• Drink responsibly! Feel free to spread out the tournament over a few days. If you do this, just be sure to seal the wines well and store them in the fridge overnight.
• Get creative with the rules! Don’t hesitate to expand the number of wines, teams, or divisions as you see fit. We can’t wait to see what clever ideas people come up with. 

Feel free to share your brackets on social media, tagging Volio and using the hashtag #VolioWineMadness!

 

As some of you may know, our intrepid Marketing & Operations Associate, Steve, has been living and studying in Bordeaux, France for the past nine months. But just as finals were coming to a close, COVID-19 hit Europe in full force. After observing the rapid expansion of the virus in Italy and France–where he had been organizing to tour over the summer, visiting Volio’s producers throughout the two countries–he had to make the game time decision to catch a last minute flight back to the US. Read on for his account of that taxing and uncertain journey home.

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Thursday, March 12

I woke up at 6am to start a great day. I would visit Domaine de la Charbonnière then spend the rest of the week exploring the region with another local wine producer friend.

I rolled over to turn off my alarm and saw six missed calls and a dozen text messages. President Trump had announced a travel ban from 26 European countries, including France, to go into effect on Saturday

(Image by ABC News)

After trying to process the situation and clear my mind I realized that the ban did not apply to US citizens. Nonetheless, I thought it would be best to move my flight to Friday (tomorrow), thinking that the situation was only going to get worse before it got better.  

So, I headed off to Châteauneuf-du-Pape to work and visit Domaine de la Charbonnière. I tried my best to focus my mind during the 50-minute drive. Over the course of the next 4+ hours, I had a tremendous visit with Véronique and Caroline Maret.

1:15pm. There wasn’t any time to waste, I departed Châteauneuf and drove to Beaune to leave some of my belongings with a friend. As I was leaving, I marveled at the beauty of the area. It pained me to be leaving after such a short time, but I promised myself I would come back.

5pm. I arrived in Burgundy and began to repack my bags in preparation for flying out the following day–luckily, my life fits into three manageable pieces of luggage these days.

6:15pm. After a quick hello and a bite to eat, I started the four-hour drive to Charles de Gaulle airport to return the rental car. I just needed to get there before they closed at midnight.

And then I ran out of gas… 

At this point in the day, I had gone through a wild range of emotions, had hardly eaten anything, and already driven for five hours. To pass the time in the car and to keep myself awake, I started making phone calls. I hadn’t stopped on my drive from Châteauneuf to Burgundy and I didn’t feel like stopping on my way to drop off the rental car. I just wanted to get there. But when you have this sort of day, exhaustion starts to creep in, and you can only focus on how much you want it to be over, that is when you make mistakes.

7:20pm. I was on the phone with a friend and I happened to glance down at the dashboard. Something caught my eye as I checked my speed. It was a little orange light–the low fuel light. It hit me like a wall. I had been so time-oriented and focused on getting places to accomplish objectives that I hadn’t filled up with gas since yesterday morning. “Hey, I am going to have to call you back.”

The range until empty said 7 kilometers. As I slowed down to conserve fuel, my headlights started to bring a blue road sign into focus. There was going to be a rest area in 800 meters, but it didn’t have fuel. I didn’t know what to do. I passed the exit ramp. Then time slowed down and over the next 10 seconds I felt my brain processing all of the options. Just as I was coming up to pass the on ramp from the rest area, I decided I should pull over since I definitely would not be able to make it to any other sort of exit or service area on the toll road. I reversed up the on ramp, parked, turned off the car, and just sat there in silence. How embarrassing. How could I forget one of the most basic elements of driving? It had been a day. But there wasn’t time to dwell on how or why. I needed to figure out how to get fuel so I could still make it to the airport before midnight to drop off the car.

It was dark now but the rest area was well lit in certain areas. I called the rental car company. They told me that since I was on a toll road, they could not help, and I would have to call the police using my phone or the orange SOS call box at the rest area.

Not really wanting to call the police, I decided to ask a truck driver who had his cab light on for help. I didn’t know what I was going to ask for. I couldn’t mix diesel fuel with gasoline. So, in my best emergency situation French, I explained my situation and asked if he could help. In the end, no luck. 

There was one other motorist at the rest area. Again, I explained my situation and asked if he could drive me to the next fuel station and bring me back, but again, no luck.

Hmmm. It appeared that my only other option was to call the police through the SOS call box. 

They told me that a mechanic would arrive in 45 minutes or less. I tried to explain again and say that I didn’t need a mechanic, just fuel. But he told me that’s how it worked.

So I waited. And sure enough, in 30 minutes, someone arrived. Only, it was not what I was expecting. It was a tow truck. Again, I tried to say that I just needed fuel. But I obviously did not know how things worked. I was getting towed.

8:40pm. After going back the wrong direction, about an hour and a half and 195 Euros later, I was back on the road with a full tank of fuel. Now I had two and half hours to go and I needed to be sure to return the car with a full tank.

Finally, after some late-night Paris traffic, finding a gas station to fill up the tank, and going around in a big circle at Charles de Gaulle, I found the rental car drop-off.

11:40pm. I handed over the keys–finally I was done with driving. Now, how do I get to the airport hotel where I had a room for the night before my flight in the morning?

Dear Charles de Gaulle airport, you are just too darn big.

(Image by NASA – public domain)

12:40am. I finally made it into the hotel room.

Friday the 13th proved unlucky

6am. I didn’t sleep very well. As I was walking through the terminal over to the United check-in, there were people everywhere. It seemed more than normal. The energy in the airport was strange. People were on edge. I avoided touching anything, used disinfectant wipes religiously, and kept a wide berth with other people.

11:10am. We were scheduled to begin boarding at any time. I couldn’t wait to get out of the airport, get to DC, and have this week be over.

11:30am. 1-hour delay due to maintenance of a cockpit light. Ugh.

12:50pm. Flight canceled. That was the announcement. No explanation. “Ladies and gentlemen, we are sorry for the inconvenience, but flight UA914 with service to Washington-Dulles has been canceled.”

Oh, this week was just unbelievable. I was in a state of disbelief and fatigue. There was nothing I could do except laugh and go off to hopefully get on another flight. The lesson of this week was:  just keep moving forward. 

There weren’t any other flights out that day, so I rebooked a seat for the same flight the next day. Live to fly another day.

I checked into another hotel room and crashed face down onto the bed. After napping/passing out for 2 hours it was still only 4pm. I decided to go for a run to clear my head.

Have you ever tried going for a run outside at an airport hotel? Turns out, you can’t go very far…

8:20pm. President Trump made another live address declaring a national emergency. There weren’t any changes to travel announced so I went off to sleep. That night the travel ban and airport restrictions for arriving passengers would officially go into effect.

Saturday, March 14 – Back to the US of A

6am. I woke up to find that the inbound plane for my flight was going to land 2 hours late. United had already issued a 2-hour delay notice and were allowing people to select alternative flights. I took this as a bad sign and decided to go ahead and book an earlier flight. The downside was that I would have to go through Chicago O’Hare and then connect to Washington-Dulles. But some progress was better than no progress!

11am. We were really leaving. I was relieved, though I also knew the journey back to DC wasn’t over yet.

2:30pm. Nine and a half hours later, I made it to Chicago. As we exited the plane, four CDC workers were in the jet bridge observing all passengers. We made our way toward customs where we were faced with enormous lines and general uncertainty. Being packed in with thousands of other passengers from Europe did not feel like the best situation for avoiding the virus though. Even more, I didn’t feel like I could leave my place in line to use the toilet for risk of going all the way back to the ever-growing back of the line. 

5:45pm. After being questioned by two US customs agents and a CDC worker, where I had my temperature taken, I was through and officially back on US soil. Later, I came to find out I was one of the luckier ones who only had to wait 3+ hours as some people were in line for more than five or even seven hours. 

(Image by BBC News)

10:05pm. My delayed flight to Washington finally takes off. I am still vigorously wiping down everything at my seat with disinfectant wipes. I must have gone through over 200 wipes in the last couple days and even more for the whole week. Thankfully, I had stocked up before I left Bordeaux.

During the flight, I can’t bring myself to focus enough to read, listen to podcasts, or anything beyond stare out at the night sky with a scrambled mind. I can’t wait for this day and week to be over.

1:15am. Finally. I can fall asleep and end one of the wildest weeks of my life. Tomorrow I begin my 14-day self-quarantine as directed by the CDC. Wow.

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Having gone through all of this, I personally feel for everyone travelling during this difficult time. Thank you to all of the customs and CDC workers for doing the best they could. I truly hope that everyone travelling back from outbreak areas will undergo a 14-day self-quarantine in earnest. My fear is that the actual percentage of people doing so will be low.

All the best and stay safe.

Steve

 

P.S. Upon finishing this post, I checked the status of the United flights that I was on from Paris to Washington and Paris to Chicago for the week. Sunday, March 15 were the last flights to leave. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday’s flights were canceled. I’m certainly thankful that I was able to make it back to the US when I did since my original flight for Tuesday would not have gone. Hoping for the best going forward.

Working from the solitude of our homes these days, we can’t help but daydream of being back in France, soaking up the spring sunshine and strolling through rows of budding vineyards. Thankfully, just before leaving Europe, we were able to visit our wonderful producer in the Southern Rhône Valley: Domaine de la Charbonnière. Véronique Maret is at the helm, steering the domain in exciting new directions. With her sister, Caroline, and her parents by her side, it is a dynamic family operation.

The winery was purchased in 1912 by Véronique’s great grandfather. He was a native of neighboring Courthézon and her great grandmother a native of Châteauneuf-du-Pape so, logically, the couple found a property exactly on the boundary line between the two communes. Over the years, they transformed the property from a simple farm into a winery. However, it wasn’t until the mid 1990’s that the Maret family started selling their wine in bottles and as specific cuvées. 

Fast forward to 2020 and Véronique continues to transform this familial winery. They use modern structure and opportunities while keeping with traditional winemaking practices. After all, the old way works! She is continuing this “old way” with strategic modern adjustments. One seemingly small adaptation that has helped Véronique in a big way is her use of smaller-diameter pump hoses. They are slimmer, lighter, and easier for her and her family to work with. Instead of revolutionizing the winery, she adapts things to work more efficiently. 

“I don’t have the same approach as everyone. For me, it is much more the quality than the quantity. And I know that for some people it is much more about the quantity of things that they are going to do in the day that are going to matter. Not for me. I prefer the quality over the quantity. Because if you do quantity, sometimes you are going to a lot of mistakes. You are going to rush things, to do too many things, and you forget something. Then at some moment there will be a huge mistake,” said Véronique Maret.

“There is always a meaning behind everything that we do.”

As we talked about the Southern Rhône region and Châteauneuf-du-Pape specifically, we discussed extensively the vessels used to age the wine. Véronique told me that barrels, in their traditional 225 or 228-liter formats, are becoming less trendy in Châteauneuf. However, “Demi-muids (400-600L wooden vessels) brings a bit more finesse and elegance to the wine.” She felt that the barrels were imparting too strong of woody notes on the wines. Using demi-muids allows Véronique to capture the benefits of aging in wood (setting of color, adding finesse and elegance, increased stability of the wine, etc.) while also economizing–these oak vessels can last up to 10 years if cleaned and cared for properly. New materials are pricey and a new demi-muid starts at $1,500.

Véronique’s passion and drive continued to shine through as we talked about life at the domaine. She was quick to point out that not she, nor her sister or parents, do just one single job at the property. They all share in the responsibilities for the vineyard, winery, and yes, the office, too. She explained that she was grateful for this variety throughout the seasons as the process of winemaking contains the same general duties year after year. 

“We are trying new things.” It is not a problem to try new things and see their evolution in this winery. There aren’t authoritarian or family restrictions that inhibit creativity or adaptation here. They experiment with different wood, aging, vineyard management, and more. Two experiments that have stuck are their organic farming practices and use of natural yeast in the winery.

“The thing that is great is that you are making a product and you have the opportunity to defend what you have done. If you want to talk about the wine, you have to be proud of what you have done.”

“It keeps you motivated to always stay on the top, to always do the best, and to be aware of all the conditions,” Véronique Maret said. “You have to accept that sometimes someone can do better than you and maybe the next year you are going to do a little bit more. Every time it keeps you on your toes. You have to do your best every year.”

In talking about the current global health situation, Véronique was practical and calm, saying, “there is always something that reminds us that there is always something that can happen and we have to be aware . For us we already have stress with the weather that we cannot control! So if we have something else to be stressed about .” 

Through all the ups and downs, Véronique and her family continue to produce outstanding wines. We are excited to witness their continued success over many years to come. 

Wines: 

Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc

Châteauneuf du Pape Domaine

Châteauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix

Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes

Châteauneuf du Pape Hautes Brusquières

Vacqueyras Red

Vacqueyras Cuvée Spéciale

Varieties grown: 

Red – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise

White – Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette

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Stay tuned for an announcement coming soon about keeping our European travel plans alive during these difficult times.

 

Over the past few weeks, we have been working hand in hand with our Italian winery partners. To say that we are in uncharted territory is a gross understatement. For our dear friends in Italy, the recent weeks have been extremely challenging.

The Italian government has taken drastic but necessary steps to contain the spread of Coronavirus across the country. As of Wednesday evening, we were told that the agricultural and transportation were the only industries allowed by law to remain open. All other businesses (restaurants, shops, offices, etc) are closed through at least April 3rd.

The domino effect on the economy will be dramatic and, unfortunately, their story will continue to develop throughout 2020 as Italy’s robust tourism during Easter and into the Summer are severely impacted.

Our hearts go out to all of our family and friends that have been touched emotionally and economically by this pandemic, both in Italy and throughout the US.

We encourage all of our customers to consider the impact of these business closures on those living on hourly wages, tips, or simply the less fortunate living paycheck to paycheck.

Volio is based in Denver, CO where roughly 70% of our Denver and Aurora Public School system’s children depend on free or reduced cost lunches as their families struggle to stay above the poverty line. This likely mirrors many communities around the US where the challenges of working families will be exacerbated by school closures and a general lack of childcare services as we all focus on containing the spread of the virus in our cities.

We are also concerned for the welfare of many families with immune system suppressed children, those with chronic respiratory illness, and the elderly community that are predisposed to the more serious side effects of this virus.

Volio has supported There With Care for many years and will be making donations over the next several weeks to support their mission. Some information about the organization is detailed below.

There is no time like the present to be active in your community and we hope that those in good health (physical or financial) see that the time is now to help those in need.

We share the responsibility of a global economy and therefore must help shoulder the burden for those in need of a responsive, local community.

Mission. Vision. Volio.

-Charles Lazzara
President, Volio Imports

Information from There With Care

 

 

DONATE

Visit the website for There With Care for more information

The Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) is considering a second round of tariffs on European goods in connection with France’s Digital Services Tax & the WTO’s recent ruling on the Airbus/Boeing dispute. These tariffs could range from 25-100% on all EU wines, among other European goods.

The impact of such drastic tariffs would be devastating to all members of the wine industry, including importers, distributors, restaurants, retailers, and even domestic wineries. The US wine industry employs 1.74 million people, thousands of whom would risk losing their jobs. The American wine community as a whole–across all three tiers–has come out in extreme opposition to these tariffs.

Volio has respectfully asked that our administration remove the proposal to tariff wines from Europe. Read the letter below from Charles Lazzara, Volio’s founder and President, to Ambassador Robert Lighthizer.

What can you do?

• Comment on the US Trade Representative’s proposal here (public comments open until January 13, 2020.
• Sign a letter that will be automatically sent to your US Representative here.
• Sign a letter that will be automatically sent to your US Senators here.
• Sign Change.org’s petitions here and here.

__________________________________________________

Letter from Volio’s CEO to USTR

Ambassador Robert Lighthizer

U.S. Trade Representative

Office of the U.S. Trade Representative

600 17th St. NW Washington, DC 20006

 

Re: Docket No. USTR-2019-0009 and Docket No. USTR–2019–0003

 

Dear Ambassador Lighthizer:

I started Volio Imports in 2007, at the age of 25, with no prior experience in the wine business.  The market was difficult but 5 years of sleepless nights and a lot of hard work allowed me to grow my business, hire talented people, and expand.

My experience has shown that it takes roughly seven years to build brand awareness with independent retailers and restaurants in the US. I have seen this play out as my business, Volio, has expanded from Colorado back in 2007 to now sell our portfolio of wines in 45 US states.

One may ask: why it is so challenging to build a wine brand in the US?

The response is simple:  there is a bottleneck (pun fully intended).

When the US repealed Prohibition, the federal government essentially said: “If you want your booze back, figure it out yourselves,” thus leaving each state to create their own liquor laws. The only federal stipulation was to maintain three tiers: Importer/Supplier; Distributor; Retailer. At the time, the US wine market was naturally immature. There were very few US wineries and little competition from around the world. Wine was culturally relevant in Europe and several countries around the world but it was still decades from having a consistent place at the American dinner table.

Fast forward to 2020 where there are roughly 10,700 US wineries, representing nearly one million acres of planted grape vines.¹ In Europe, there are 7.9 million acres under vine, representing roughly 45% of the total vineyards worldwide.² The majority of these wines dream of having a stable presence in the United States but struggle to navigate the complexities of our industry.

Enter the bottleneck.

Importers and US Wineries employ more than 64,000 people in the US as of 2017—an increase of 153% since 2001—and are the first gate keeper to quality wine in the US.³ We travel the world searching for wines that will resonate with our customers and uphold the principles that define our respective missions and visions. From literally thousands of wines tasted each year, we may add 10-20 to our portfolio. The average importer will market roughly 200-300 wine selections in a portfolio and operate on less than 30% margins. In order to build these brands, we employ sales people who spend 120+ days a year in hotels, traveling by car or air, regularly working holidays and weekends to educate and connect to consumers.

There has already been significant consolidation for US wine distributors over the past 30 years, with 1,100 distributors in 2017 down from 3,000 in 1995.⁴ The top three US distributors employ roughly 40,000 Americans and select wines from import portfolios or work directly with winery suppliers in the US.⁵ Most distributors operate on 25%-30% margins. They invest heavily in inventory and employ thousands of talented, highly skilled jobs ranging from warehouse and delivery professionals to accountants and sales people. These companies need a balanced, global offering of competitively priced wines and spirits to remain relevant in a super-saturated, highly-competitive market. Like the imports tier, it is not unusual for this level of the industry to work weekends, holidays, and 50+ hour work weeks to earn the business of retailers and restaurants.

Retail and Restaurants are the last stop. From hundreds of thousands of wines, spirits, and beers available in the US, consumers will see less than 150 wines from Europe at the average grocery store and less than 20 wines from Europe on the average wine list.

Our livelihoods, our families, and our futures depend on the balance we have struck over years of blood, sweat, and tears dedicated to this industry.

Since the initial tariffs, applied in November 2019, and the subsequent proposal of potentially 100% tariffs on European wines and other luxury goods, Volio has held off hiring three new positions for 2020. We are a small importer, by comparison, but our customers and colleagues have shared similar strategies as we wait to see if “Import Armageddon” sets in. These tariffs will break importers as we are asked to shoulder the pricing burden with our supplier partners in Europe.

The tariffs you are proposing have shaken our industry, caused thousands of new jobs to go unfilled, and delayed significant capital investments. We have become party to a dispute that we played no role in creating. The US government has decided to use our industry, among others, as a pawn in a game of global chess over one company.

The current administration campaigned on protecting American jobs, yet, as opposed to isolating the Boeing / Airbus dispute to its industry, our elected officials have decided there is greater geo-political benefit risking hundreds of thousands of US jobs across several industries to protect Boeing.⁶ In short, the bottleneck is about to meet the guillotine.

As unfair as this is to our industry today, it paints an even darker picture about future trade disputes.

I respectfully ask you to remove the proposal to tariff wines from Europe.

 

Charles Lazzara

Founder & CEO

Volio Imports

 

References:

¹The National Association of American Wineries

²Eurostat, October, 2017 (ec.europa.eu)

³Bureau of Labor Statistics, July 9, 2018

⁴Food & Power, Leah Douglas, November 30, 2017

⁵Wine & Vines Analytics, Stacy Briscoe, 9/2018 issue

⁶KPMG July 25, 2019 “France: Digital services tax (3%) is enacted”